Time to share…bus travel in Mali and West Africa

Tips for travelling by bus in Mali

 

I have bus travelled through Mali and Burkina Faso many times now. The buses, though often old and ‘well loved’, and frankly very grubby, are a fantastic way of meeting people, and getting around cheaply. They are not fast, nor are they particularly comfortable, but generally they will get there, eventually.

TOP TIPS… Ask the locals which are the best bus companies and catch buses in the morning – the earliest is often the best. Its cooler, and its probably the best condition bus on that day. Book the day before at the bus station, if you can, to ensure a seat. Or turn up very early and buy ticket straight away. Often entrance to the bus is given in order of ticket purchase – someone official will shout out the names on the list and you will have to show them your corresponding ticket number. As soon as you get on, find the best seat you can.

Think about which side the sun will be on most of your journey. Its extremely hot sitting in the direct sun, even if the bus has curtains, so if possible sit the other side.

Look at the condition of the seat, try to find the best you can available. Is it directly behind one permanently reclining? If so avoid it- you wont have any leg room.

Don’t catch a bus too late in the day, as they often breakdown, the delay will possibly mean you will drive at night. Avoid this. Most accidents happen at night.

Hand luggage taken on to the bus you won’t have to pay any extra for. Anything that is put in the hold below or on the roof you probably will. Make sure the person who places it marks both the ticket and the luggage with the same number and knows where you are getting off the bus. They won’t want you to have something on the roof if you are leaving the bus before the end stop.

Take a large chilled bottle of water on the bus with you. Wrap it in a damp cloth – it will stay cooler, longer that way.

If you get over hot any time, pour a little water on the back of your head and neck. It works a treat!  – that tip given by lovely Amasagou Dolo, a very experienced Dogon guide, in Pays Dogon in May, the hottest month. It works, I guarantee. Don’t worry about getting the seat wet, or sitting in a puddle, it will dry off soon enough, and its really nice to be cool for a little while!

Even in January and February (the cool season) I witnessed plenty of local people sweating and complaining that it was very hot on the bus- the main problem is lack of ventilation. To get maximum ventilation, make sure you are sitting right at the front near the usually opened door, or right under a roof vent.  (These seats go first – so be very early) Or you can take your own ventilation – buy lovely and incredibly cheap woven fan – and take one on the bus with you!

It’s obvious but wear cool clothes and not your best, as they will inevitably get dirty and sweaty and you will want to change into something else when you arrive at your destination.

Some guide books say you should wear ankle- length clothes and long sleeves in Mali, but I have not found this to be the case. I generally look at what locals are wearing and follow suit. Western fashion has definately arrived and so it’s acceptable to wear normal summer clothes without offending anyone much. Mali is a very spiritually open and tolerant country, a mixture of Moderate Islam and Animism, which makes for very smiley, happy people on the whole.

Take plenty of small change on the bus with you. At each stop plenty of sellers will climb on and want to sell you all kinds of cold drinks and bagged snacks such as peanuts, oranges, bananas, cakes and sesame seed biscuits- I have tried most things, and never had any ill effects. Even if you dont speak the language, you can catch their eye, smile and point to what you want. If you don’t have the confidence or language to ask how much it is, don’t be afraid of just giving a coin to the seller, nine times out of ten, you will be given change, the thing you are getting really will be cheap, and you won’t get ripped off. If you can’t reach the seller yourself,  someone closer will normally be happy to both ask, give your money, and pass the change back to you. Generally you will get more than you can eat yourself – so do offer it around the bus – its a great way of connecting with people.

If the bus stops – they dont always, but often will around prayer time, then do get off the bus. As soon as it stops, the temperature inside rockets. You will see more of life outside of the bus anyway! Don’t be afraid of the people milling around you, as you step down, they are generally very harmless, and if you aren’t interested they don’t hassle. If you want a tea or a cold drink there is nearly always a vendor near by the stop – look where the other local voyagers are going.

Toilets at bus stations are probably the worst you will find anywhere in Mali, so wear flip flops, and sluice your feet down after you have been. They won’t provide toilet paper, so be prepared to carry your own, or adapt to the local custom and use the wonderful stripey water kettle, and clean off with your left hand. A little travel bottle of hand stelilizer is a good idea occassionally too.

Enjoy your trip to West Africa – It’s a truly wonderful place!